3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue - Proper Feeding For Bunnies

Litterbox Training Health Articles

Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least twice a day!!

Hay
Greens
The problem with calcium
The problem with gas
Tips of keeping greens fresh
Foods to feed in small quantities
Fruits to feed in small quantities
Foods to avoid feeding
Pellets
Fruits
The problem with a pellet-only diet
The problem with sugar
Foods that destroy nutrients
Foods that are toxic
Poisonous Plants List
Non-Toxic Plant List

Please give your bunny a choice between a water bottle and a heavy ceramic water bowl (one heavy enough that it won't get tipped over). Most bunnies actually prefer drinking from a bowl. If you prefer bottled water to your tap water, please share it with your bunny too. If your bunny uses a water bowl, check it often to make sure it is still drinkable (there may be food or fur in the water, or it may have been spilled). If using a water bottle, check it often to make sure water still flows easily and that the bunny can comfortably drink from it.

Please note: you should clean the water bown regularly to prevent the growth of bacteria and/or fungal colonies, which can begin when the water bowl is always filled but never cleaned. Warm soapy water is all that is required, on a regular basis. If you can, let it dry and offer a different water box. Bacteria live but the rule "they dry, they die".

The proper food will keep your bunnies happy and healthy for a long time. You must provide the following to maintain a proper diet for your bunnies:

unlimited hay, especially timothy (alfalfa hay should be only given to growing bunnies and adult bunnies that need to gain or maintain weight because it is high in calories and calcium), otherwise it should only be given as a treat to adults and timothy hay, grass hay, and other healthier hays should me made available). Please see this page for more information: http://www.fsa.usda.gov/haynet/. Hay should be the primary food source for rabbits.
a variety of at least 3 green vegetables (see list below) - this should be three different types of greens, i.e. not 3 different lettuces; parsley and cilantro are the same type of green, etc. If your rabbit has never had greens before, introduce them one at a time and watch for runny stool. Any time you notice it, make sure your bunny's bottom is clean (you may have to give him a butt bath), and remove that green from that rabbit's diet. If your rabbit gets runny stool from any greens, it may be due to improper care from his life before he came into yours. Greens are not absolutely necessary, only fresh hay is, so if your rabbit cannot handle any greens at all, make sure he eats a lot of hay.
some pellets (depending on bunny's age) - pellets should not be the primary food source for rabbits.
a small amount of fruit and treats - too much sugar in any form can cause digestive problems with bunnies, and can also make other problems worse by providing an environment where bacteria and even cancer can thrive
fresh water (and the same water you would drink, so if your tap water tastes bad, be nice to your bunnies and don't make them drink it either!)

Do not let your bunny dictate what foods to give. Bunnies will eat foods that taste really good to them but are really bad for them. They don't understand proper bunny nutrition - that is up to you, in order for your bunnies to live long healthy lives. If you need to change your bunny's diet, introduce new foods gradually and watch for any adverse effects. For example, if you need to switch pellets, offer a mix of the old kind of pellets with the new kind of pellets for a week or two, before just offering the new kind.

Adult rabbits should only be given a limited amount of pellets, but an unlimited amount of hay for the fiber and to help grind down the ever-growing front teeth. When rabbits are fed too much pelleted food, they will fill up on that and not get enough hay and grasses in their diet.

Note: Always check the ingredients in your rabbit pellets!! You would be surprised what kinds of stuff companies use in making these pellets, and some of the ingredients are actually very bad for your bunny. (Still compiling a list of ingredients to be aware of)

Alfalfa pellets and hay are good for growing bunnies and those that need to gain weight, but most adults and all overweight rabbits should be on a diet of Timothy hay (unlimited) and some pellets (restricted) (consult your veterinarian) only. Some of the best Timothy-based pellets are:

Please note: 3 Bunnies has a very supportive relationship with the folks at Sweet Meadow Farm and we get a lot of our supplies from them as well as donations, so we cannot help but endorse them on this website, but as your webmaster, I can tell you, from personal experience, that two of my rabbits who rejected nine different types of pellets when I ran out of their favorite Blue Seal pellets took to Sweet Meadow Farm's Timothy pellets immediately, so I also give them my personal seal of approval. No pun intended. 3 Bunnies endorses Sweet Meadow Farm without reservation.

If your bunny gets runny stool, you should take away the greens and fruit and encourage the bunny to eat as much hay as possible - you may also need to restrict pellets in order to accomplish this. If one of the greens is causing a problem, you can try to find out which one it is by re-introducing greens one at a time until the bunny has a problem again.

Please also see this page from the ASPCA regarding common fruits and the dangers they present to bunnies:
Strange Fruit: Seasonal Produce That Can Harm Your Pets

Note: one of the easiest ways to thoroughly wash a lot of greens at once is, fill a soup pot with water and some lemon juice, put all the greens in and agitate it with your hands for a few seconds, then put the greens on something where all the excess water can drain. Afterwards, put the greens on a towel to allow further drying so they will last longer in storage (use the greens drawer in your refrigerator, sometimes called the crisper).

Another option is to cut up all of the greens at the outset, when they are dry (prior to cleaning) IF you intend on washing and soaking the greens before giving them to the rabbits anyway - you can do the washing at that time and rinse thoroughly and serve.

The problem with a pellet-only diet
It is important to note that pellets were originally intended for making it easier to feed rabbits that were meant for the dinner plate, and little thought was given to longer-term care. Modern high-quality pellets are better, but rabbits still need much more than just pellets, and the pellets must be properly selected. They are far from an ideal food for a pet rabbit, and should only be fed in limited quantities with healthy adult rabbits:

The problem with calcium:
Please also see the section on calcium in the litterbox for indications of buildup of any kind. After all, everyone knows, everybody poops! A listing of foods that are high in calcium is in the list of foods to feed in small quantities.

Bladder and/or kidney stones
Bladder sand or sludge - the bladder fills with a thick, calcium-rich urine that also lines the urinaty tract and is an irritant and also a painful condition to endure. The bladder always feels full and the rabbit has difficulty urinating.
passing sludge/sand can lead to a urinary tract infection
the inability to fully empty the bladder may make the rabbit "leak" urine from an continually full bladder, and this can lead to urine scald
it makes it very difficult and eventually very painful for the rabbit to urinate, and they will strain more and more in the litterbox
you can't just remove all calcium from a rabbit's diet to avoid this issue because then his body will absorb whatever calcium it needs from the bones and the rabbit will become extremely fragile as the skeleton is weakoned due to the lack of calcium
treatment options are not pleasant - if it's serious enough, the bladder must either be flushed with a catheter, or surgery may be necessary.
chalky residue in the litterbox, a definite indicator of mineral-rich urine (sometimes it hardens to the point where you can't easily scrape it off) is not, by itself, an indication of build-up - it may simply be normal elimination of the excess calcium so that it doesn't accumulate in the bladder, so the only real way to determine if there is an issue is an x-ray. Calcium is a metal and shows up light in an x-ray, so it's very easy to see when a rabbit is suffering from a calcium-lined urinary tract.

Some things you can do to try to influence any calcium build-up that you suspect is to offer some of the following. We offer these suggestions as nothing more than folk-lore home remedies as a precursor to seeing the vet if the condition doesn't improve:

Water spiked with some cranberry juice (a natural diuretic) - but do NOT make this the only water you offer, or your bunny may become dehydrated if he doesn't like the spiked water
Add pepitas (shelled, unsalted pumpkin seeds) to their food or if they like them, offer them as treats
Polycitra - the active ingredients are citric acid monohydrate, potassium citrate monohydrate, and sodium citrate dihydrate. It is administered 3 times a day, which can be stressful on both you and your bunny. You must get a prescription and your vet's advice to use this product.

Note: for more information on calcium content in foods, please follow the following links:

The problem with sugar
This is true for any mammal - sugar can cause the body to retain fats and it lowers the oxygen levels, creating environments for the thriving growth of bacteria and even cancer. If the rabbit has gas, sugar will make matters worse.

Rabbits, in general, can have about a tablespoon of food or treats such as raisins each day; some cannot tolerate any sugar in their diets and will get runny stool. Rabbits have a sweet tooth, so you must be careful not to overfeed sugar to them in any form.
A rabbit will eat sugary foods in favor of more proper foods, thus negatively affecting their overall diet
more coming soon...!!

The problem with gas
Have you ever had a really bad stomach ache? Gas causes that with rabbits too, and it is very painful to them. They can have problems passing gas which can lead to severe pain and a life-threatening situation. You can help. First, get to know what your rabbit's stomach feels like when he feels fine, and you'll be able to guage how far from normal he might be. You can also treat the rabbit any time you suspect gas with simethicone (infant anti-gas drops contain this ingredient). Simethicone is not actually a drug, it is a surfactant/defoaming agent - instead of working via chemical reaction, it breaks down the surface tension of gas bubbles embedded in mucus in the GI tract. As surface tension is altered, the gas bubbles are broken or coalesced so that the gas can be eliminated more easily by the body. It does not interact with any medications and is not at all harmful even if used when it wasn't necessary afterall. Besides treating with simethicone, you should also very gently massage the stomach towards the rear end in the hope of gently pushing the gas through the system. Rabbits many times have difficulty passing gas and can run into trouble if not for attentive caretakers. If both the simethicone and massage have failed, it's time to call the vet. Some of the indicators of a gas episode are:

loud gurgling noises coming from the gut
signs of discomfort or lethargy
loss of appetite
sitting hunched over (sort of the same as how people hunch over when they have really bad stomach aches) or pressing their stomachs against something
abnormally tight stomach
abnormal posture

Note: these lists may not be as complete as they need to be, so a strong caveat to the reader - when in doubt, don't give it to your bunny!!.

Pellets
Please see the problem with pellets to understand the issues with a pellet-only diet.

Do not get the pellets with seeds and banana chips and such in it - it is a treat to the bunnies but it isn't healthy and can cause stomach problems. Unfortunately, some manufacturers refuse to accept this and market what looks, to a human, like a really nice dinner for their rabbit, but in fact it is bad for them. Pellets are not even the most important part of a rabbit's diet (hay is), but care should be given not to offer pellets that are bad for the rabbits, or that have treats that are bad for the rabbits mixed in.
Pellets can go stale just like bread and become unappealing to the bunny's pallate, so store unused pellets in an air-tight container, preferably in the refrigerator.
If you get a large quantity of pellets, the best way to store it is to separate it into smaller sealed containers (ie, ziplock bags) and store them all in the refrigerator, and only open one at a time to get food from. The unopened ones will stay fresh much longer. Do not store in the freezer as this can cause the small amount of moisture in the pellets to ruin the food (as water crystallizes, it expands and forms sharp edges which break the cell walls of other materials) Oxygen is the most corrosive element there is - it reacts with pretty much everything - every time you open a container, you introduce fresh air (wich contains approximately 20% new oxygen) to be used in the chemical reactions that spoil food. Using smaller bags and pressing out as much air as possible, and only opening one at a time, means that all the unopened bags will use up the available oxygen and degradation will slowed dramatically, keeping the food fresher for longer.
Typically you can allow a healthy growing bunny to free-feed on pellets (he can eat as much as he wants)
The most common recommendation we hear for healthy adult rabbits (that do not need to gain weight) is that they should only have about 1/4 cup of timthy pellets per 5 pounds of bunny
If your rabbit shows any signs of stomach problems, such as runny stool, take away the pellets and veggies and feed plenty of timothy hay and contact your vet
For healthy adult rabbits, Some recommended timothy based pellets are Sweet Meadow Farm Timothy and Oxbow Bunny Basics/Timothy, both of which are ideal for adult rabbits that do not need extra calcium or calories.

For underweight or growing rabbits, some recommended alfalfa-based pellets are Blue Seal Show Hutch Deluxe, (this is an alfalfa-based pellet but it is cooked and much lighter than other pellets), Purina Rabbit Chow, and Martin Rabbit Pellets.

The following greens may be given to your rabbits (make sure there are no pesticides and wash thoroughly):

Note on lettuces: Lettuce contains a chemical called lactucarium, which is a depressant and is known to cause diahrrea - see the Wikipedia for detailed information. Also, darker green leaves typically have more nutrients and are less likely to contribute to runny stool.

Alfalfa sprouts
Apple Mint
Basil
Beet Greens
Bok Choy (Chinese cabbage)
Brussels sprouts
Celery (especially the leaf) (Note: to avoid any potential problems, slice or chop the celery against the grain so the veins aren't stringy - veins can be swallowed without proper chewing and can cause serious gastrointestinal problems)
Chard
Cilantro (no roots)
Clover & clover sprouts
Collard greens
Dandelion greens & flowers
Dill
Endive
Escarole
Fennel
Green pepper
Lettuce: romaine (only limited amounts, may cause excess cecals), green leaf, red leaf (limited iceberg and light greens generally, as it may cause soft stool in some bunnies))
Mint
Peapods (flat)
Peppermint leaves
Pineapple-mint
Pineapple-sage
Radicchio
Radish sprouts & tops
Raspberry leaves
Sweet potatoes
Turnip greens (tops)
Watercress
Wheat grass

Foods to feed only in small quantities:
Please also see the problem with pellets and the problem with calcium.

Broccoli leaves and stems (Note: broccoli can cause gas in some bunnies, and it is high in so it should not be given to bunnies who have any urinary tract problems, such as bladder sludge)
Broccoli (high in calcium, also may cause gas)
Carrots (high sugar content)
Carrot tops (high calcium)
Kale (high in calcium, also may cause gas)
Mustard greens (high calcium)
Parsley (high calcium)
Spinach (high in calcium)
There's more to come!!...

Some tips on keeping and serving greens:

Always wash veggies thoroughly and dry before storing, and it doesn't hurt to wash them just before feeding and serve them soaked - the fluids are always helpful
Get rid of any part of the greens you wouldn't eat (browned, wilted, etc)
Serve greens nice and wet to help with hydration and prevention of urinary tract problems
To revitalize wilted greens, soak in water for a few hours
Storing a paper towel in the bag with the greens helps absord moisture to prevent rotting

The following fruits may be fed to your rabbit in small quantities (due to their sugar content) as treats (no more than 1-2 tablespoons each day):

Note: although fresh is best, in most cases you can also get frozen or dried versions of these fruits; if dried, please check the ingredients and make sure they are not sweetened with sugar, corn syrup, etc.

Apple
Banana
Blueberry
Cranberry
Grape
Melon
Papaya
Peach
Pear
Plum
Pineapple
Pumpkin
Raisin
Raspberry
Strawberries

Foods to avoid feeding your rabbit:

Beets (sugary)
Breakfast cereals
Chocolate (NEVER give this to any pet - it is poisonous to most)
Corn (rabbits can't digest the hulls of the corn kernels)
Diatomaceous Earth - this is made from finely ground shells, and even the highest quality can have edges which act like razor blades against the thin lining of a rabbits stomach lining. Do not use for food or litter.
Fresh peas
Grains
Green beans (can cause gas)
Iceberg lettuce (and any light green lettuce leaves - they are high in water content but low in nutrients and may cause diahrrea) - can be gven in small amounts or when you have no other greens to offer, but watch the output for soft stools
Legumes
Nuts
Onions (see this page)
Pelleted food with seeds mixed in (it's a treat to the bunnies but the seeds cause stomach problems)
Potatoes (white or red)
Seeds of any kind
Starches of any kind
sugar, in any form

Foods that contain compounds that destroy nutrients:

Sweet potato
Cassava
Bamboo shoots
Maize
Lima beans
Millet
Bracken fern
Tea leaves
Coffee plants

Foods that are toxic to rabbits:
Note: do not allow your rabbit to eat dried leaves from any trees - too many types are very toxic and some can cause cyanide poisoning (this includes specifically apple tree leaves, oak leaves, maple leaves, etc). If you allow your rabbit an outdoor run, please clear the area of leaves as the rabbit may find them very tasty, but they are very dangerous!! (see also this page on cyanide poisoning)

Generally toxic:
- Rhubarb leaves
- Raw lima, kidney or soy beans
- Onions
- Citrus peels

Oxalates (causes pain and swelling of mouth and throat, swollen tissue can restrict breathing or cause suffocation.)
- Begonia
- Caladium
- Calla lily
- Diffenbachia
- Dumbcane
- Jack in the pulpit
- Philodendron
- Schefflera

Minor Toxicities (causes vomiting, diarrhea, nausea)
- Aloe vera
- Amaryllis
- Bird of paradise
- Birch
- Boxwood
- Cedar
- Chrysanthemum
- Daffodil
- Daisy
- Eucalyptus
- Galiola
- Hydrangea
- Haycinth
- Iris
- Juniper
- Redwood tree
- Rananculus
- Sweet pea
- Swwet william
- Violas

Extremely Toxic (one leaf can kill)
- Angels Trumpet
- Azalea
- Black Acacia and Locast
- Bleeding Heart
- Carmellia
- Carnation
- Carolinia Jasmine
- Castor Beans
- Christmas Beans
- China Berry
- Clementis
- Coffee Tree Plant
- Cyclamen
- Daphne
- Delphinium
- Easter Lily
- Elderberry
- Flax
- Four-o-clocks
- Geranium
- Heavenly Bamboo
- Hemlock
- Holly Berries
- Ivy
- Jerusalem cherry
- Lantana
- Larkspur
- Licorice plant
- Lily of the valley
- Lobelia
- Milkvetch
- Monkshood
- Morning glory
- Mountain laurel
- Narcissus
- NightshadeLoeander
- Pea family
- Pig weed
- Potato plant
- Pivet
- Rhododendron
- String of pearls
- Thorn apple
- Toyon
- Vinca
- Wintergreen
- Wisteria
- Tew

Articles
General Hay Greens Treats

General
Care, Feeding, Tips
Morfz Rabbit Reference's section on care, feeding, and tips
Calcium Metabolism
From the 2007 Vertinary Conference - Calcium Metabolism In Rabbits: What's New?
Medirabbit's Feeding Page
Medirabbit's PDF article on feeding rabbits
Feeding
An article covering the most important parts of the rabbit diet.
About Nutrition in Small Mammals
Dr. Susan Brown's Article On Small Mammal Feeding
HRS FAQ: Diet
The House Rabbit Society's section on rabbit diets.
Rabbit Food Pyramid (pdf)
A nice graphic of the food pyramid as it applies to rabbit nutrition.
CarrotCafé [Rabbit Diet Information]
Guide to proper feeding for your rabbit.
General Diet Info
Zooh Corner's basic dietary guidelines for a rabbit.
WHRS Rabbit Care Guidelines
The House Rabbit Society's rabbit care guide.
Non-Pelleted Diets for the Rabbit
Leith Petwerks' article on proper bunny nutrition.
Learn to Read the Labels!
What's in your pets' foods and what does it mean to you (and them)?
How To Feed the Rabbit Gastrointestinal Tract (pdf)
Technical article on the gastrointestinal tract of the rabbit.
Feeding Rabbits
Article on the nutritional requirements of rabbits.
Rabbit Diet
TalkToTheVet's article on proper feeding for rabbits
Rabbit Diet Guide
The MA House Rabbit Society's article on proper diet for your bunny
Non-pelleted Diets For The Rabbit
Leith Petwerks's article on diets for rabbits
Feeding Rabbits
Provet healthcare's article on the nutritional requirements of rabbits
Interactive Rabbit Diet
A nice interactive food pyramid for rabbits
Healthy Foods for the Healthy Rabbit
A shopping list you can print out and take with you when you go shopping
Natural Nutrition Part I: The Importance of Fiber
The House Rabbit Society's article on rabbit nutrition (fiber).
Natural Nutrition Part II: Pellets and Veggies
The House Rabbit Society's article on rabbit nutrition (pellets).
Natural Nutrition Part I: The Importance of Fiber
The House Rabbit Society's article on the importance of fiber
Natural Nutrition Part II: Pellets and Veggies
The House Rabbit Society's article on pellets and veggies

Hay
Hay in the Litter Box? (pdf of flyer)
A flyer reminding people to use hay in the litterbox.
Hay is the Basis of a Healthy Rabbit Diet
The San Diego House Rabbit Society's page on the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet
Evaluating Hay Quality
The College Of Agriculture & Natural Resources's article on evaluating hay quality
Choosing Good, Quality Hay
Todayshorse.com's article on selecting high-quality hay
Got Hay?
The Wisconsin House Rabbit Society's page on the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet
Types of Hays and Grasses
The San Diego House Rabbit Society's article on the different types of hay
USDA Site On Hay
(not reviewed yet)

Places to get hay:

Sweet Meadow Farm
Sweet Meadow Farm has hay, food and treats for bunnies
FarmerDave.biz
Farmer Dave's hay, food, treats and toys for bunnies (ships to USA and Canada)

Greens
Don't Forget the Veggies! (pdf of flyer)
A flyer reminding people to provide fresh greens to their rabbits.

Treats
Rabbit Treat Foods: Facts and Fallacies
The Wisconsin House Rabbit Society's page on rabbit treat foods